Our Leather and Materials

Learn about the leather and materials we use in crafting our straps

Our Leather and Material Selection

With so many different material on offer, we know it can get a little confusing to know which one to choose. We hope that this page will help to educate about the different materials we use, and which one is most suited for your needs.

Comparing the materials across a few key characteristics, here's how they stack up on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 being the least, and 5 being the most.

Note: There is no "ideal" material as it depends very much on the look and feel that you are going for in a strap, and it is not always true that 5 is the most preferred across all characteristics. For example, some people might prefer a leather that is more flexible (5 on the Pliability scale), while others might like it to be stiff.

Refers to whether the leather is vegetable-tanned (or veg-tan), chrome-tanned, a combination of both, or made of a synthetic material. 

Vegetable tanning is a natural process, relying on tree tannins and water, while chrome tanning relies on chromium salts and tanning liquors. While veg-tan leather is typically seen as "higher quality" and more natural, chrome-tan leather are generally more pliable, with greater water-resistance and scratch-resistance properties.

Refers to the texture of the leather surface, either smooth, pebbled (naturally occurring due to the tanning process), embossed (pattern is stamped onto the leather), sand (leather with the top surface sanded or marked), or scales (for exotic leather). 

Refers to the change in colour of the leather as the leather is stretched. This is due to the movement of the oil and wax inside the leather. Not all leather has a pull-up effect as it depends on the tanning method.

Refers to the level of reflectivity (how much it reflects light) of the leather. For veg-tan leather, it generally starts off with a matte/dull finish, but becomes shinier with use due to patina. See the section on "Patina Potential".

Refers to the flexibility of the leather, and how easy it is to bend. While a leather might be highly pliable, the pliability of the final leather product will depend on a number of factors such as the thickness, construction method etc. For example, a flexible leather can be made less pliable as a strap by adding a stiffener layer, while a stiff leather can be made more pliable by reducing the thickness.

Refers to the durability of the leather in terms of withstanding scratches and marks

Refers to the ability of the material to repel water. No leather is 100% water-proof, and submerging a leather that is highly water-resistant for prolonged period will still alter the characteristics of the leather.

Some material, like our Sailcloth-textured FKM rubber, are water-proof. Nonetheless, a handcrafted strap made of a waterproof material is still not 100% water-proof as the construction is susceptible to water damage over time.

Refers to the ability of the leather to patina, or the natural-look of the leather as it ages. Patina is a soft glow on the leather that develops through friction and wear. Patina is often said to enhance a product (gets better with age) as the leather product develops a character that is an amalgamation of all the conditions that it's exposed to. In general, veg-tan leather develops a patina while chrome-tan leather does not.

Note: These are characteristics we think are most crucial when comparing across leather / material types, but is not an exhaustive list of all leather characteristics. Also, this is an oversimplification of the characteristics. If the topic interests you, feel free to Google or get on Youtube for more detailed explanation from the true experts!

Alligator

If you're looking to class up your timepiece, look no further than alligator straps. Versatile to a fault, these reptile hides complement modern and vintage watches alike. While many cattle hides offer unique textures, few come close to the distinctly recognisable scales of an alligator belly.

We are proud to offer alligators of various hues and finishes for your every need. Dark shades in an understated matte finish pair well with a metropolitan style, or go all out with a striking Millennium Finish for that flash of style!

We source our Alligator straps from a range of tanneries, including Heng Long tannery in Singapore!

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Babele

Having a distinctive cloth-like appearance, Babele leather is produced by the Tempesti tannery in Italy, a founding member of the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetable, the famed Consortium for Real Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather.

Tempesti's experience of over seven decades in vegetable tanned leather shines through in this unique article that offers the tactile hand feel of fabric and a suppleness that moves with you.

The inspired pairing of these physical characteristics with an eye-catching surface that emulates the warp and weft of woven textiles will make the perfect casual strap for your weekends.

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Barenia

Barenia, also known as Novonappa, hails from Tanneries Haas located on the Rhine River plain in France. Still owned and run by the founding family, the sixth-generation tannery carries its extensive knowledge in calfskin processing through to its products. Having strong partnerships with high-end luxury fashion brands including Hermès, Chanel, and Bottega Veneta, Tanneries Haas also developed product-specific expertise, not least in the watch strap industry, where the Barenia and Zermatt articles are synonymous with beauty, comfort, and reliability.

The buttery-smooth calfskin has a mellow and plush feel, with just the right amount of rigidity and flex. Fine pores on its surface not only add to the leather's beautiful grain, but grant it the ability to catch the light at a range of angles. This results in a soft gloss which complements the mild patina that it develops with use and time.

While one would associate such features with the need for delicate handling, Barenia has not only survived but shone in its last 50 years' use in handbags, footwear, and saddlery. Such time-tested excellence would certainly do well on your wrist.

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Buttero

Located in the heart of the Italian leather distract in Toscana, Italy, the Walpier tannery has operated over the last 40 years, churning out remarkable leathers on the international stage. Conceria Walpier is also a member of the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetable, a consortium of leather tanneries sharing the same high standards of production, and a mark of quality and authenticity.

Buttero leather, the king of patina, is arguably their most famous article. It picks up marks and scratches which quickly blend gracefully into the subsurface. Produced with an aniline finish which shows off the hide's natural surface as opposed to a smooth pigmented topcoat, the leather comes in crisp and vibrant colours as well as traditional shades. With time and wear, your strap will develop a natural sheen and deeper hues. All of this built on a base of firm temper full-grain shoulders - built to last.

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Chèvre

The Alran tannery was established in the south of France, producing stunning goatskins and calfskins with the black mountains and lush forests as its backyard. The tannery's attention to detail developed naturally as its primary clientele in its early years were upholstery, book, and shoemakers, creators of products which had to stand up to close scrutiny. Alran continues to actively innovate and work closely with the most prestigious design houses to evolve their range of offerings.

Alran's Chèvre goatskin is immediately recognisable from its texture and grain. The slight pebbled texture is a result of a manual technique done by hand to reinforce and emphasise the natural grain of the leather. A smooth surface and a slight gloss immediately imparts luxuriousness to products made with this leather. Not only a feast for the eyes, chèvre is also strongly water and scratch-resistant, and is a great option for the exteriors of watch straps.

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Chromexcel

Founded in 1905, the Horween Leather Company produces unique articles that remain relevant over a hundred years later. From regulation basketballs to presidential dress shoes, Horween leather is not just hype - its the real deal from head to toe.

The word 'signature' is thrown around a lot, but when you hear 'signature pull-up', chances are they're talking about Chromexcel of Horween fame. Developed around the time of the Titanic, this tannage never went down in the ensuing century. 'Pull-up' refers to the lightening of the leather as it is flexed and pulled, resulting in gorgeous two-tone gradients across its surface. This effect is achieved when oils and waxes, impregnated in the leather during production, is temporarily displaced due to movement. An aniline (non-pigmented) finish allows the pull-up to be seen in all its glory.

Just like you and your time-piece, the beauty of this leather isn't just skin deep.

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Crazy Horse

Hands down, Crazy Horse leather lives up to its name. Evoking images of cowboys, saddlery, and the Wild West, this leather is what you get when you mix Nubuck and Pueblo into one. Velvety soft and yet able to take a beating, these straps will develop a patina with rugged charm. Colour variations give it a visual texture which is only improved with time and use as it flexes, shifts, and collects the marks of your daily adventures.

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Epsom

Tanneries Du Puy is a French tannery specialising in calfskins since 1946. As part of the French Tannery Federation, it maintains recognised high standards of know-how and production. Acquired by Hermès in 2015, the tannery's focus on luxury leathers is assured for years to come.

A firm leather with a hatch grain embossed pattern, Epsom is well-known for its quality, durability, and wide range of colours. Owing to the embossing process, Epsom has a certain level of rigidity and will sit sturdy and secure on your wrist. This leather is easy to clean and is highly resistant against scratch and wear, and will maintain its rich colour without forming a patina.

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Nubuck

Nubuck has a softer hand feel with a short and even nap. Crafted from the outer layers of cowhide, Nubuck offers more structure, and is more robust for active wear. Straps made with Nubuck can take a pounding, and lend a visual kick to your wrist.

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Ostrich

Ostrich leather from South Africa, specifically ostrich leg, is not often used for leather goods due to its small size, but is perfect for watch straps. It has a beautiful scale texture, has good water and scratch resistance, and is soft and supple. Ostrich leather is available in a wide range of colours and finishes, providing many options if you are looking for an alternative to alligator.

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Pueblo

The Badalassi Carlo tannery from Tuscany, Italy, wields over 40 years of experience and tradition in hand-finished vegetable tanned cowhides. The strong personality of this tannery is visible in the vibrant and instantly recognisable leathers that have made waves in the footwear and bagmaking world.

Badalassi Carlo is also a member of the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetable, a consortium of leather tanneries sharing the same high standards of production, and a mark of quality and authenticity.

Pueblo, named as a tribute to the indigenous peoples of south-western USA with strong character, offers a hand feel like no other. Its rough surface belies a supple cowhide, offering both ruggedness and elegance in a single package. The distinct artificial scratch patterns on its surface are achieved by rolling iron balls over the more classic 'Minerva ' article. Easy to maintain, Pueblo quickly patinas into a smooth surface that loses none of its rustic, vintage feel.

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Saffiano

Set up in 1972, Tannery Nuova Overlord takes pride in their modern, technology-aided production set-up supplemented by a staff with experience and knowledge of decades. Nuova Overlord is also a certified member of the Leather Working Group, a not-for-profit organisation pushing for responsible sourcing and environmental best practices in the leather industry.

Chances are you've seen or touched Saffiano leather, the signature cross-hatch grain first popularised by Prada. The pattern is created by embossing a cross-hatch pattern on wax laying with the surface of the calfskin, granting it high levels of scratch and water resistance. Luxurious, light, and low maintenance, its no wonder this leather has made its rounds in the premium bag market, adorning the exteriors of briefcases and handbags in a myriad of colours

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Shell Cordovan

Founded in 1951, the Shinki Hikaku tannery is nestled in Kobe, Japan. True to Japanese reputation, the hides produced by this quiet horsehide expert display a high level of attention to detail.

Dubbed the diamond of leathers, shell cordovan is made from the muscle around the horse's rump which forms a "shell". It is an exceedingly rare leather for three reasons. First, only two small oval shaped areas can result from each animal. Second, horses are only raised as part of the food chain in a few places in the world, resulting in a low supply of horsehides as a byproduct. Third, shell cordovan techniques require complicated tanning techniques that take up to six months to complete.

Shell is particularly at home as a watch strap, one of its signature properties being that it tends to ripple rather than crease. Shinki Hikaku's version of the leather is also extremely clean and uniform, and can show off cool tones and depth of colour.

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Waxy

The Badalassi Carlo tannery from Tuscany, Italy, wields over 40 years of experience and tradition in hand-finished vegetable tanned cowhides. The strong personality of this tannery is visible in the vibrant and instantly recognisable leathers that have made waves in the footwear and bagmaking world.

Badalassi Carlo is also a member of the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetable, a consortium of leather tanneries sharing the same high standards of production, and a mark of quality and authenticity.

Waxy is Badalassi Carlo's interpretation of the 'pull-up leather'. Offering a streaky distressed look, it comes in rich, vibrant, and classic colours that pair well with most outfits and vintage watches.

Shop Waxy Straps