Strap Guide: Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196J

Strap Guide written by @thewatchphoto. Thank you, Majd!

Introduction

The Patek Philippe Calatrava stands in the horological hall of fame, alongside icons like the Cartier Tank, Omega Speedmaster, and Rolex Submariner. The Calatrava is known for bringing the maison back from the brink of bankruptcy decades ago, and possibly even saved the very concept of the mechanical wristwatch. This particular Calatrava, the 5196J in yellow gold, in my view, is a distillation of the quintessential — a simple and elegant dress watch.

Here, we explore five distinct straps from Delugs that aim to showcase the breadth of possibilities available, even for a very classic yellow gold timepiece.

Gold Sailcloth Signature

Sailcloth straps generally offer a rugged yet refined aesthetic, often associated with tool watches. Pairing the classic formality of a yellow gold Calatrava with a durable, textured material like sailcloth creates an exciting high-low combination. While traditional sailcloth can suffer from drawbacks like material fraying or discolouration, the Delugs Sailcloth material shares none of these issues. The practicality of the strap is further boosted by the use of FKM rubber, ensuring comfort, durability and ease of wear.

Choosing the 'Gold' colour is a somewhat predictable move, allowing the strap to complement and extend the warm tones of the yellow gold case, yet the rugged texture immediately transforms the watch’s character. This combination is ideal for those who appreciate a bit of fun and are rather comfortable donning a yellow gold watch daily.

Matte Himalayan Alligator Signature

For high-end timepieces, crocodile and alligator leathers are the traditional leathers of choice, lending an undeniable touch of luxury and class. This particular offering, the Matte Himalayan Alligator Signature, elevates the appeal by introducing strong texture and a non-traditional, lighter colour palette — a refreshing surprise! The Alligator texture confers a measure of flair, while the matte finish is key here, keeping things understated and avoiding unnecessary flash. This strap starts formal, but the striking Himalayan colour provides contrast to the classic yellow gold, preventing the look from feeling too conventional, while still complementing the lightly textured eggshell dial. This strap is the Calatrava in its purest form — uncompromising luxury.

Forest Green Ostrich Leg Signature

Ostrich leather falls somewhere in the middle of the formality scale. The distinctive texture features prominent scales and natural variations, adding an intriguing visual dimension to the Calatrava.

The rich, deep Forest Green hue, reminiscent of British racing green, is a sophisticated choice that contrasts beautifully against the yellow gold case. This combo was inspired by one of my favourite Art Deco buildings in the world — the Carbide & Carbon building in Chicago. This strap provides a tasteful alternative to more conventional colours and is suitable for sophisticated dinners or smart-casual events where you want to communicate individuality without being too obvious about it.

Taupe Saffiano Signature

The Taupe Saffiano Signature is an excellent choice that offers versatility and utility. Saffiano leather is known for its distinctive cross-hatch pattern, which provides the practical advantage of a high level of scratch and water resistance. This feature allows the strap to hold up better to daily use, compared to smooth leather options.
The colour Taupe is a true chameleon; depending on the lighting conditions, it can appear as beige-brown, stone grey, or closer to dark cream. This adaptability makes the strap incredibly versatile, capable of dressing up an informal outfit or dressing down a more formal one. The overall effect is sophisticated charm. Think running errands on the weekend while maintaining an air of quiet elegance.

Royal Blue Alcantara Signature

When maximum comfort and subtle luxury are desired, the Royal Blue Alcantara Signature makes for an outstanding option. Alcantara is a suede-like material that feels decidedly more plush and luxurious than traditional leather, often described as feeling like your favourite down-stuffed pillow. This is a premium material that generally flies under the radar, making it an excellent choice for when you want the Calatrava to remain a little bit incognito. The vivid and rich Royal Blue colour provides a striking yet pleasant contrast to the warmth of the yellow gold case. This pairing is perfect for casual drinks after work, or an event where comfort is paramount but a refined look is still desired.